Zebra finch care

We are often asked about finch care and nutrition, so that warrants a post on that topic. Before going further, however, please note that this post is only a brief summary and has the  purpose to highlight only the most important points.

We also note that there are numerous resources online about finch care, but not all are reliable nor provide the correct information. Always check what/who the source is, and how (if at all) are they being funded/sponsored - an avian vet or a peer reviewed published paper are always the best go-to resources. Next in line are experienced breeders. If you ever doubt any information given, follow your gut feeling and get a second opinion. It never hurts to do extra research. 
 
Nutrition: In addition to high quality fortified seeds, zebra finches should be provided with high quality pellets, along with fresh vegetables and fruits, and a source of calcium daily. Bird food should not contain any artificial colours, flavours, or additives. Boiled eggs are an excellent source of nutrients, and should be made available to finches at all times especially during the breeding period. All fruits and vegetables must be washed well before being served. Ideally, organic, pesticide-free fruits and vegetables should be given, but in the absence of those, good produce washing practices must be put in place.

Nutritional deficiencies: The most common nutritional deficiencies are protein, vitamin A and vitamin D deficiencies. Food sources therefore must provide sufficient amounts; otherwise, irreversible conditions and even death might occur. A very nice article summarizing the vitamin D deficiency and preventative measures can be found here.     

Food spoilage: One has to be mindful about food spoilage. Seeds and pellets must be replaced daily. Fruits and vegetables should be served in a dish, and any leftovers removed by the end of the day, with the dish washed and dried thoroughly (and ready for the next day). Otherwise, the spoilage-prone foods can contaminate various areas of the cage, and attract bacteria and mold, which can adversely affect the birds' health. Youngsters are especially sensitive and prone to an illness.

Drinking water: It is best to provide bottled water as the source of drinking water. While tap water is generally just fine for humans, it is often a poor choice for birds. Birds have a fast metabolism and are much more sensitive to any contaminants, no matter how miniscule the amount might be.
Drinking water must be replaced at least once a day, but in our experience, this needs to be done more frequently. Every time water is replaced, the dish should be washed and cleaned to prevent a buildup of mildew and dangerous bacteria (the latter can be recognized by a slimy texture). Mild dish detergent will suffice, but the water dish needs to be rinsed well. Corners and crevices can be cleaned with a toothbrush or a Q-tip, as this is where the buildup forms the most readily. Any calcifications in the water dish can be easily resolved by soaking the dish in the vinegar and water mix (1:1) for a few hours. Feeder-type water dishes are very prone to having slime accumulation, especially if they have intricate designs (and as a result contain small crevices and corners).

Bathing water: Finches are very clean birds and love taking multiple baths a day. For this, a separate dish is required. The dish should be shallow, and with bevelled edges (sharp edges can easily damage finches' delicate feet). The bathing dish should be filled with lukewarm, clean water up to an inch in depth (below the bird's shoulder level).   

Toys: Finches are very active all day long, and love to fly and jump from dusk to dawn. Therefore, it is important to provide finches with healthy and safe toys that positively stimulate the birds. The best toys for finches are hanging ropes, spiraling ropes, rope loops, ladders, swings. The materials should be natural, such as cotton, bamboo, and wood. Regularly check toys for any damage (e.g., fraying, cracking, loose threads) to prevent injury. If little delicate wings or feet end up entangled, the result could be fatal for the bird.    

Cage type and size: Finches are very active birds, with much need to freely fly, and therefore require a so-called flight cage. Putting a finch (or finches) in a small cage is cruel, and will only make their life miserable and unhappy. An unhappy finch is a depressed finch, and a depressed finch will be prone to an illness and have a shortened lifespan. Unless one can provide their finch(es) with a large cage, it is best to refrain from getting the bird(s) in the first place. The minimum bar separation should be no more than 1.2 cm or 1/2". The minimum length for a cage should be 2 feet (for 2 finches). In general, the cage should be longer than taller, but such cages are difficult to procure, especially at very large sizes. If the cage is long enough (at least 2 feet), then it is not a problem if the height is greater than the length. The bottom line is that finches do require plenty of space, and no cage is too large for them. 
Please never ever get a round cage for any bird! 

Cage maintenance: It is imperative to keep the cage and the surrounding area clean. Harsh cleaners must be avoided at all cost, because toxic fumes and residue can kill birds. The best cleaning solution is vinegar mixed with water (5:1); for tough jobs it can be mixed 3:1 (and rinsed). The cage should be wiped down once a week (or more frequently as needed) with a vinegar solution and a soft cloth or paper towel. 

Droppings liners: Some people use newspapers to line the droppings collection tray, which is fine, as long as the birds do not have a direct contact with it. Most cages come with a bottom grille, which serves as a barrier preventing direct contact with droppings and lining. If such grille is not available, then it is best to refrain from lining the tray with newspapers, because printing ink is toxic and rubs off quite easily. Other lining options include brown packing paper, paper towel, and plain printing paper (but that can get pricey). 
***Rodent bedding, cat litter or wood shavings should never be used as lining, as these emit tiny particles that can adversely affect bird's lungs. Cat litter in particular is meant to clump up upon contact with moisture, which can be deadly when such dust reaches bird's lungs.

Light and environment: Natural light is essential for birds' mental and physical wellbeing. It should be noted that finches are unable to produce vitamin D without direct sunlight. Dark places without exposure to daylight are absolutely not appropriate for birds. 
Also, the birds should not be exposed to sudden temperature changes, or drafty areas of the house.      

Sleep: Finches require at least 10-12 hours of sleep in complete darkness. If your finches are in a common area that is illuminated after dawn and/or before dusk, then the cage should be covered so the birds can get their much needed sleep. Just like in humans, the lack of sleep in birds can lead to stress, illness and even premature death. 

      
      

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